June 24, 2025 2 min read
What does one of our staff members do on a couple of days off in late June? If you’re Tess, you camp and climb the North Arete of Matterhorn Peak, a classic alpine route tucked into the dramatic Sawtooth Range of the Eastern Sierra. It's Type 2 fun at its finest—big views, alpine granite, and just enough snow to keep things interesting
Current As Of: 22 June 2025*
Activity During Report: Hiking, off-trail travel, alpine rock climbing (trad gear) on North Arete route, and light mountaineering on approach and descent
Conditions:
Overall, snow begins just after the tarn along Horse Creek and the route itself is in fine shape and snow free.
The Horse Creek Trail is in solid early-summer condition—snow-free, with just a few muddy patches near the creek. Around 9800', the tarn popular for bivy camping is open, blooming with wildflowers, and offering plenty of flat spots for tents.
From there, snow begins just past the tarn, and while it’s navigable, crampons helped us cruise through the sun cups with way less frustration that morning. The North Arete route itself is dry and in great shape—stellar granite, incredible exposure, and bluebird skies overhead.
The approach/descent gully climber's left of the arete is a mix of snow and rock. On the descent, there was a small section of unavoidable snow in this gully which we needed to pass in order to get back to the base of the route. It was manageable with careful footwork, but we recommend keeping traction gear (crampons/ice axe) handy just in case.
And yes, mosquitoes were out, but not in force! Worthwhile to bring some bug juice just in case or pre-treat your clothing with some Permethrin.
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Need Hiking Gear? If you're in need of sleeping bags, hiking boots (Men/Women), trekking poles, crampons, ice axes, or other gear (backpacks, tents, etc.) for your adventures, you can rent or buy everything that you would need with us here at Eastside Sports.
Got a More Specific Conditions Question? As always, don't hesitate to call us at store (760-873-7520) if ever in need of adventure ideas or conditions information!
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