Shepherd Pass: One of the Hardest Trails in the Sierra Nevada

Shepherd Pass is not for the faint of heart. 

It climbs 6,400 feet, LOSES 670 feet on the way and it's 10.5 miles from the upper trailhead to summit - if your car makes it to the upper trailhead! Otherwise, you can add another 1.2 miles and 600 feet elevation gain to your adventure. 

It is hot at the bottom, cold at the top and all temperatures in between.

So, why would anyone even hike here?

Because it's awesome!

Because there are amazing camp sites on its Western side.

Because Mount Williamson and Mount Tyndall beckon!

We recommend packing light while still carrying enough water, and using a pair of hiking poles. 

Looking West from the top of Shepherd Pass

Trailhead Access

Drive to Independence and turn West onto Market Street, which turns into Onion Valley Road on the way out of town. Follow this road for 4.3 miles, then turn left onto Foothill Road. 

This one is not paved, but is very passable at first. Take it slow, though, the washboard has gotten pretty bad. 

Follow Foothill Road for 2.8 miles, until you reach a trailhead. This is the so-called stock-trailhead. If your vehicle has low clearance, park here. 

If you have high clearance, you may continue on Foothill Road for another half mile, then turn left where the sign says something like "Hiker Parking". This road has been repeatedly washed out and requires high clearance. We found a sedan parked halfway up with a torn off front bumper. Be nice to your vehicle and don't overdo it.

Starting The Hike: Symmes Creek to Symmes Saddle

The hike starts right at the edge of the Owens Valley and gets very hot in the summer. It's best to start in the early morning, when it's still cool and the north-facing slope leading up to Symmes Saddle is still partially shaded.

The hike begins by following and frequently crossing Symmes Creek. Route-finding can be a little challenging at times because the trail is very overgrown with willows and the occasional rose. 

Looking up to Symmes Saddle

After the last crossing of Symmes Creek, the trail starts its climb up towards Symmes Saddle. It never gets too steep, thanks to many, many switchbacks. 

Once you crest on Symmes Saddle, take a well-deserved break in the shade of a tree.

Symmes Saddle to Anvil Camp

Now, the trail drops again. From Symmes Saddle, it side hills over another two little saddles, then drops down a lot more. The trail here is very narrow and the hillside very loose and steep. Make sure you pay attention to your footing here.

Dropping down feels frustrating, since you know you'll have to re-gain all that lost elevation. 

Lots of steep side-hilling here

At its low point, the trail will cross a seasonal creek (or creek bed, if dry). After that, it climbs again gently and crosses a running creek. If you need water, this is your chance! There is even a nice shady spot on the upper side of the crossing where you can sit down to filter your water.

Now, the trail climbs again for real - switchbacks included. At some point, you will find yourself on a switchback that leads you over 1,600 feet in the wrong direction! But a shortcut is not advised at all - the terrain is very steep, loose and overgrown with Mountain Mahogany. You just need some patience and maybe a good podcast to get through this section. 

Somewhere in this area, you will get the first glimpse of Shepherd Pass itself - way up there... 

Closer to you is a steep bit with a forest. At the top of that steep bit will be Anvil Camp, so keep that in view rather than the pass in the distance. 

After the switchbacks  you will indeed enter this enchanted forest of old-growth trees and the landscape will turn into a green oasis with running water and camp sites: congrats, you've made it to Anvil Camp!

Some people gave it the nickname "Advil Camp", for reasons you might understand by the time you get here. 

Anvil Camp to Shepherd Pass: the Final Push

A lot of backpackers will opt to camp here and leave the rest of their Shepherd Pass Hike for the following day. This makes a lot of sense, since Anvil Camp is about the only area with camp sites AND water access on the eastern side of the pass. 

Once you keep going, you'll quickly leave the forest oasis again and enter a moonscape of unvegetated talus fields.

Shepherd Pass Trail now changes its shape, too. Below Anvil Camp, it is fairly smooth, above however, it gets very rocky. This is where your hiking poles and sturdy footwear become your best friends. Take plenty of breaks - you are now at altitude and dealing with lots of potential ankle rolling. 

The trail eventually crosses a bowl: you are now in The Pothole. From here, the pass is very clearly visible - along with the very steep wall right below it.

Shepherd Pass from The Pothole: the trail switchbacks in the shade just right of the photo's center. The snow field extends all the way to the rock wall on the right during spring, early summer and all year during big snow years like 2023.

Cross the moonscape of The Pothole and pass some deer bones on the approach to the pass' final switchbacks. You can most likely make out the switchbacks now. 

If you are doing this in spring or early summer or after a big snow year, watch out! The snow field will cover a good portion of the switchbacks and the trail gets very, very treacherous. You will need an ice axe, crampons and solid training with both in order to safely make it to the pass. Remember those deer bones you saw just a few minutes ago? They didn't know about crampons and ice axes, and look what happened to them.

Rather turn back than take unnecessary risks. 

If clear, slowly proceed up the switchbacks. They are loose and the trail hasn't been maintained in a very long time, so make sure you check where you place your feet. 

Near the top, you'll cross through a notch in a ridge, then side hill along the head wall until suddenly, the landscape opens up, there's a sign saying "Loose Herding Prohibited Beyond This Point", and you're entering a high alpine meadow: Welcome to Shepherd Pass. 

You turn around, look back and wonder: was Shepherd Pass Trail really that bad?

The notch just below the pass

Just below the pass

The top of Shepherd Pass with Mount Tyndall in the background