18 July 2026 - Trip Report: Climbing Third Pillar of Dana

Just outside of Yosemite National Park is yet another wonderful climbing route that's stout, challenging, but so rewarding.

Considered a High Sierra classic, the Third Pillar of Dana, Regular Route, is known for its five-pitches of high quality granite in a spectacular position, with views overlooking Mono Lake. In particular, the last pitch has been dubbed by others, "The best 5.9 in the universe" - although in classic sierra style, the cruxes of this pitch are routinely labeled as 5.10a/b in guidebooks. 

On 3rd Pillar of Dana

Trip Report: 

Current As Of: 18 July 2026*

Activity During Report: 5.10 climbing, scrambling, off-trail hiking

We decided to climb this route on a Friday morning in hopes that the crowds would be less compared to Saturday or Sunday; and indeed, we were content to share the route with only one other party.

We parked at the Tioga Lake Overlook and started up the Glacier Canyon Trailhead at sunrise. The trail meanders around the southern side of Tioga Lake before steadily gaining elevation up Glacier Canyon to treeline, following a rushing creek with ample wildflowers in midsummer. We then left the creek to work our way up a fair use trail to the Dana Plateau.

On The Approach Hike

This climb is unique in that you achieve the high point of the climb during the approach, and descend to the base of the climb to begin.

We took a brief rest break at the summit of the Third Pillar, stashing our hiking gear nearby, before taking the class 3/4 descent to the base of the climb. On this final scramble down, we could see our objective clearly for the first time, a proud line of granite that steepens to a narrow, steep headwall for the final pitch. 

Stashing Gear for Later

We followed various cairns down loose sand, slabs and rocks to the base of the climb, roping up at the top of the ramp for the traditional start.

The first two to three pitches required paying close attention to the guidebook topos to ensure we were on route, and the upper three pitches, where the rock narrows, were easier to follow the exact line, with distinct features including chimneying under and over a large flake.

The final "5.9" pitch did not disappoint, finding passage through the steepest granite and navigating the final cruxes of the route, and completing exhilarating mantle to finish. 

We relished in our second summit break for the day, this time with the accomplishment of having finished the technical climbing route. After one last appreciation of the lakes and peaks views, we hiked 3 miles down the Dana Plateau and Glacier Canyon back to our car at Tioga Lake. 

Pictures of the Climb

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