13 Jul 25 - Conditions Report: Bear Creek Spire Alpine Rock Climbing

Staff member Tess and her friend went out for a long, enjoyable day to do the Northeast Ridge on Bear Creek Spire! Here's what she found along the way out from Mosquito Flats all the way to the rock formation itself:

Conditions Report: 

Current As Of: 09 July 2025*

Activity During Report: Alpine rock climbing, on and off trail hiking

Conditions: 

If you’re looking for a classic High Sierra alpine climb with a good mix of adventure and Type 2 fun, the Northeast Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is still in great summer shape.

My partner and I set out from the Mosquito Flats Trailhead and hiked up through Long Lake, Treasure Lakes, and Dade Lake before racking up for the climb. The trail was completely dry and clear of snow until around Dade Lake, where intermittent snowfields began lakeside as you can see in the photos below. These continued up to the base of the route but were shallow, soft, and heavily suncupped, or more accurately, deeply runneled from sun exposure. We never needed ice axes or crampons, but—as always—we recommend bringing them just in case. Snow conditions can change quickly and may refreeze overnight if you’re on an alpine start. If you don’t end up needing them, it’s easy to stash gear en route and pick it up on the way back. Of note, the final part of the descent route had some snow at the bottom of the ridge near Cox Col.

The rock on the NE Ridge itself was totally dry, which made for a really enjoyable climb. Temps were in the high 70s to low 80s, but as usual in the alpine, the sun was intense. Sunscreen, sunglasses, and long sleeves made a big difference in staying comfortable. Even on a breezy day, you’ll want full sun protection up there.

Now let’s talk mosquitoes. From Mosquito Flats through Treasure Lakes, they were out in force—thick, aggressive, and persistent. I used Picaridin, but honestly wished I had brought a bug head net. If you’re heading out in the next couple of weeks, I highly recommend some sort of face and neck protection unless you enjoy a constant buzz in your ears.

On the descent, we used the standard rappel stations. There have been some recent additions to the tat, but it’s still pretty minimal. If you're heading up soon, definitely bring a small amount of cord or webbing to reinforce existing anchors so that you are never beyond your risk tolerance. Better safe than sketchy.

All in all, the NE Ridge is in prime condition for summer ascents. If you’ve been thinking about giving it a go, now’s a great time—just don’t forget the sunscreen, bug net, and maybe a little extra tat!

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Tess approaching the north end of Dade Lake with Bear Creek Spire standing majestically in the background

Lakeside shot from north end of Dade Lake towards the south and Bear Creek Spire

The descent notch mid-frame near Cox Col (UTM: 11S 343292E  4137425N) along the northwest ridge. Note that you are walking down or down-climbing through snow.

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