May 08, 2025 11 min read
Hey y'all!
Matt & Colin here.
Late last fall, our store's Black Diamond (BD) brand reps came into the store for their seasonal visit to show us new products, get feedback on old ones, provide some instructional demos, etc. Typical stuff for all of the brands we carry here in the store.
The end of the visit, though, took an unexpected turn. Our reps asked us about how the BD climbing shoes in the store were selling. We openly admitted that they weren't selling well compared to the far more popular La Sportiva and Scarpa models. We even mentioned we were considering not continuing them in order to bring in different, more popular shoes. I mean...who really thinks of BD as a shoe company? They have great climbing hardgoods in terms of cams, nuts, carabiners, etc., but the reality is that there aren't any notable pro climbers who wear BD shoes, even among the BD climbing team. The climbing community as a whole generally has a poor impression of BD climbing shoes compared to La Sportiva, Scarpa, Ocun, Acopa, etc. (other than the true entry-level model - the Momentums - which beginners are buying for the price point more than any particular performance standards. Matt even had to admit that they only pair of BD climbing shoes he had years ago was not great and that he didn't see himself ever wearing any again.
Our BD rep, clearly used to being on the defensive, was ready to counter all this skepticism, particularly for the Aspect Pro - their high-top, stiff, trad shoe roughly equivalent to the TC Pro. He confidently claimed that if he can just get people to give them a chance and try them, they are surprised to find that they like them a lot more than expected and often even end up preferring them to their TC Pros (...don't believe me? Check the reviews on the BD website and Mtn Project for yourself). So there was only one logical thing to do, twist the rep's arm and get a couple free pairs of shoes so we could put this bold claim to the test....and it worked!
Here are the long-awaited results!
Shoe Tested: Black Diamond Aspect Pro - a mid-top shoe designed for trad and sport climbing, single or multi-pitch.
Length/Style of Test: We have both been wearing our Aspect Pros since November 2024 for a combined 75+ days climbing local to the Bishop area and trips outside of the area. That climbing has included everything from granite slabs/cracks and steep/overhanging pocketed volcanic tuff to pulling plates on long sandstone multi-pitches, tricky basalt in Crawdad Canyon, and gently overhanging limestone in southwest Utah. Difficulty ranged from 5.6 to 5.11+ and V0 to V4 across trad, sport, and bouldering.
First things first - what is the shoe made of and how is it designed/made?
More than most people realize, the fit of a climbing shoe matters more than its features. A shoe that fits you well will inherently provide confidence and a boost in performance. Here's how the Aspect Pro fits:
Sizing: BD uses American sizes which makes for difficulty in making a direct comparison to the European sizes used by the other major shoe companies. (Note: A switch to European sizing is supposed to occur sometime in 2025/2026 according to our BD reps.) We used the size conversion chart provided on the box (and website), and the sizing proved spot-on. We both went for a just a slight bend in our toes with the intention of using being able to use them as all-around shoes rather than purely for performance.
Toe/Foot Shape Compatibility: The first thing we would say is that of the three major mid-top shoes on the market (La Sportiva TC Pro, Scarpa Generator, and the Aspect Pro) we found the Aspect Pros to best fit our 2E wide forefeet that ranged from between EU 42-44. Another of our staff members felt the Scarpa Generator was the right shape for his larger EU 46 size foot, but it did not fit our slightly smaller feet super well. Here at the store, we believe that the most important aspect of any shoe is the way it fits your foot, not the reputation of the shoe or which professional wears it. As such, we were optimistic about the shoe from the start of the testing period when we wore our pairs for the first time and found they fit our feet like gloves. Colin has even had multiple foot surgeries related to bunions and has had no issues wearing them strapped tight for minutes trying hard on a single-pitch or tied more loosely for hours in a multi-pitch environment.
Break-in Period: The shoes were stiff out of the box and generally have remained just as stiff since then, with only some slight softening which we think has been beneficial to their comfort and fit (and slab performance) at zero cost to the efficacy of the stiffness. They have retained their original stiffness much better than the TC Pro for both of us, while still providing high-quality smearing on slab.
Cracks should be the bread and butter of any mid-top trad shoe and the Aspect Pro does not disappoint. In fact, it even brings some unique features to a market space that overwhelmingly features variations of the same stiff, tall toe box profile shoes. The split outsole and slimmer toe box profile of the Aspect Pro are unique among this style of shoes and provide it with a distinct ability to gain purchase in thin seams and confidently execute tough rand smears. The flip side of these features is that the Aspect Pro does not handle wider cracks as well as its competitors due to its relative lack of protection. While we found them usable up to hand-sized cracks, there was some pain when foot jamming at that size and anything larger as the slimmer shoe struggle to fill up the space and lacked the typical non-split sole stiffness to support the foot in lengthy foot jams or heel-toe cams - both things we saw as a natural by-product of the sportier than normal design of the shoe.
A great smearing shoe requires the ability to maximize the surface area contact of your rubber, the sensitivity to feel micro-features, and just a smidge of stiffness to support standing over the course of a long pitch. Bigger, mid-top trad shoes typically have the first and third features, but miss on the second regarding sensitivity. The Aspect Pro definitely upends that paradigm. You might think that the slight downturn or harder rubber would detract from its smearing performance by limiting surface area or sensitivity, but the split outsole makes up for that by providing flexibility to the shoe's forefoot to bend and maximize surface area contact with the rock, while the slimmer toe profile enables greater feel of the rock underneath. Our initial skepticism was quickly reversed and we both came to respect the shoe's ability to smear on the polished granite slabs of trade routes in Pine Creek Canyon outside of Bishop (though it should be noted that Matt hates slab and makes Colin lead all of those pitches).
Because of its split sole, we both were slightly pessimistic as to how the Aspect Pro would edge, especially after we had broken in the shoes. In the end though, we were both very pleasantly surprised and found it to edge nearly as good as the non-split TC Pro and Scarpa Generator. We chalked this up to the activated slingshot and the full-length midsole making up for support lost in the split outsole. Additionally, we found the slimmer toe box profile gave us greater precision in placing our big toe exactly where we wanted and feel the rock feature underneath. The BD Black Label rubber performed as well as any other we have ever worn and capably keyed into features when trying to stomp on tiny crystals.
As you might expect, this mildly downturned, mid-top, trad-focused shoe is not a great option for routes that require grabbing/pulling with your feet like those at the Hurricave or the Delta Wall in Pine Creek. With that being said, the features reminiscent of bouldering shoes on the Aspect Pro (e.g. the split sole, toe patch, and 3D molded heel) do give it an advantage compared to other similar shoes in any routes that may feature small sections of this terrain in the form of a roof or bulge.
We both found the shoe to be very durable in all respects.
Upper/Liner/Laces: We experienced no rips, tears, or discoloration of any kind and never really felt concerned about any of these things occurring. Crazily enough, both pairs are still very much the same shade of white as when they came out of the box. As for the laces, they still show no signs of wear and tear which is a welcome difference from La Sportiva laces that always seem to fail multiple times before the shoe itself does.
Rubber: The BD Black Label Fuse rubber proved exceedingly durable and was slow to wear down. It was only this past week (6 months after the start of testing) that Colin took his into The Rubber Room to be re-soled (and that was mainly due to a chunk of sole next to the rand coming off in a crack). Matt has still yet to re-sole his shoes and likely has another 10-15 climbing days before he will need to do so.
One thing is for sure, the Aspect Pro stands alone within the mid-top market. It is not simply a copy of the TC Pro, Generator, and other models. If you are looking for a mid-top shoe that performs well in thin cracks and has the versatile sensitivity to both smear and edge well, you should absolutely give the Aspect Pro a shot. Even if you are just in the market to buy your first-ever mid-top trad shoe, you should absolutely try the Aspect Pro to determine if its shape and fit are right one for you - the most important part of shoe selection. If so, you will have a top-end shoe that will give you solid performance for years to come.
Options for all-day trad climbing shoes have historically been limited—especially ones that rival the La Sportiva TC Pro. While the Aspect Pro may not unseat this iconic model or magically onsight 5.13 for us mortals, it earns serious respect for its innovative design and distinct advantages. It is absolutely a worthy rival to the TC Pro and should be considered by everyone in the market for a mid-top trad-focused shoe. (Don't forget...it is also worth considering the Scarpa Generator Mid as it offers another foot shape option for you to try out, particularly for those with wider feet).
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If the BD Aspect Pro has caught your attention, click here to see if we have your size in stock and get our pair shipped today!
As always, don't hesitate to call us at store (760-873-7520) if you have questions about the right footwear for you!
(And if you need any gear to prepare for your own Eastern Sierra adventure, we got you covered with free shipping! All you have to do is join our email list and place your order with us online.)
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